Rainfall caused the expected CFS to almost double, making for a more challenging excursion for kayakers and canoeists.
A small raft crashes into a wave on the high-water Dead River. (Ron Chase photo)
My wife, Nancy, and I, along with both of our sons, have been paddling at The Forks in western Maine during weekends since the mid-1980s. While kayaking and canoeing whitewater on the Dead and Kennebec rivers has been the primary focus, flatwater paddling on the beautiful lakes and ponds in the area has also been a frequent part of our agenda.
Recently, we decided to join our youngest son, Adam, for a weekend of paddling at The Forks. On Saturday, we planned to participate in a Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society (PPCS) whitewater trip on the Dead. The following day, the three of us intended to kayak remote Spencer Lake, a first for Nancy and me.
Club member Kyle Duckworth was the trip coordinator for the Dead River trip. Called the Throwback Cruise, his plan was to use a scheduled lower-end 1,800 cubic feet per second (CFS) dam release as an opportunity to encourage participants to paddle classic canoes and kayaks from earlier times. In the past, the Throwback Cruise has been very popular and attracted many relatively inexperienced paddlers.
By the night before the Dead release, a large number of paddlers had signed up for the trip. However, earlier that day, The Forks area received over 2 inches of rain. Instead of 1,800 CFS, the Dead flow was projected to be twice that, a much more difficult level. Kyle sent out a club email alerting participants about the drastic change.
Anticipating some participants would not want to paddle the high level, Chowderheads with the PPCS took action. Adam and another club member arranged to obtain rafts to carry those concerned about paddling the high water in hard boats. Six others agreed to bring tandem inflatable boats — easier to paddle and better suited to assist with rescues.
When 36 of us assembled at the Dead River put-in, we were greeted with partly sunny skies, light winds and warm temperatures. Our large intrepid band was prepared for 16 miles of almost continuous high-volume whitewater. After Kyle provided a safety talk and organized participants into groups, we began our adventure. The level was 3,500 CFS with more water expected from downriver tributaries.
Most paddlers handled the high water capably. However, there were some mishaps. As usual, Chowderheads completed effective rescues.
The only alternative takeout on the Dead River is a location approaching the midway point called The Gravel Pit. A canoeist who had already experienced two swims left his boat there and joined Adam in the raft. This was a good decision since the lower half of the Dead is more difficult.
We navigated through Class IV rapids named Elephant Rock, Mile Long, Upper Poplar and Lower Poplar. Most club members were able to contend with the challenges, but a few capsized and were rescued. At the takeout, we celebrated completion of the most demanding Throwback Cruise ever!
Onto calmer water, Spencer Lake is located in a remote, mountainous area northwest of The Forks. Access is by traveling the Hardscrabble Road west from Route 201 in Parlin Pond Township.
Sunday, Adam, Nancy and I met at Parlin Pond on a hot, sunny day with moderate winds out of the northwest. We drove on a sometimes rough dirt road for 14 miles to a left turn just after crossing over an outlet stream from Chub Pond. The half-mile road to the landing is in poor condition.
The badly eroded dirt landing is situated on picturesque, secluded Fish Pond surrounded by hills and mountains. We paddled south for a long mile with the help of a feisty tailwind to sandy beaches on the left where a very narrow passage connected with Spencer Lake.
Leaving the corridor behind, we emerged onto glorious Spencer Lake. The elongated body of water sandwiched between two mountains has the character of an inland fjord.
Approximately halfway down the lake when approaching sandy beaches on the east shore, the tailwind increased in velocity and breaking waves began to form. Concerned about our ability to get back, we turned north and skirted the east shore.
Persisting into the unrelenting wind, we returned to the Fish Pond landing, completing two outstanding but challenging days of paddling in The Forks area.
Read about exciting whitewater trips and lake and pond excursions such as Moosehead Lake and Donnell Pond in my book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine.”
The author of “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals – New England,” Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” is available at North Country Press and through online retailers. Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at [email protected].
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