A perfect smash burger combines hard-seared, audibly crispy edges and lots of beefy juiciness.
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Since I’m someone who thinks lettuce and tomatoes just take up space on a burger, this ugly-delicious creation won my heart. The only thing missing was a commemorative T-shirt marking the fact that I’d finished that freakishly large burger.
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Jansan McCorkle, co-owner and operator of Heron Smash Burgers, makes a burger. Photo by Tony Caldwell /PostmediaArticle content
The beef here is fresh, never frozen, halal and Canadian, I was told. Patties here are four-ouncers, making them an ounce heavier than the usual. The buns are potato buns, which don’t get soggy quickly, and the burgers are constructed so that they are still tasty after a 20-minute ride with an Uber Eats driver, co-owner and cook Jansan McCorkle said. I have not tested that claim, preferring to eat on the premises.
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Oklahoma smash burgers sell well, but so do the budget-friendly classic smash burger ($10), the jalapeño chipotle smash burger ($12) and the “Big Smack” ($16).
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Given my fondness for spicy food, I liked the bold, sharp flavour of the burger with fresh jalapeño slices, a made-in-house chipotle sauce and a dusting of ancho chile spice. The gargantuan Big Smack, we were told, was a fave of construction workers looking for the menu’s most filling item. In addition to its two patties, smash sauce, cheddar, lettuce, the burger contained an onion ring, sautéed onions and a pickle.
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Michael Chesterman, co-owner and operator of Heron Smash Burgers, makes a jalapeño chipotle smash burger. Photo by Tony Caldwell /PostmediaArticle content
The Big Smack at Heron Smash Burgers. Photo by Tony Caldwell /PostmediaArticle content
This burger business, it turns out, is a two-year-old side hustle for Chesterman and McCorkle. They also run from the same premises Vittle, a catering and meal-delivery business, which they launched before the COVID-19 pandemic and which takes a healthier approach to feeding the masses. I washed down my burger with some Vittle cold-pressed juice. Very briefly, I thought of my body as a temple.
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To my surprise, Heron Smash Burgers serves a vegan burger, made with smashed Beyond Meat product. I admire the principles of those who would order one, but for me the promise of a beef-fat-induced berserker state at Heron Smash Burgers is too good to pass up.
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No Forks GivenArticle content
191 Somerset St. E., 613-230-1888, noforksgiven.ca
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An apple brie smash burger at No Forks Given on Somerset Street East in Sandy Hill. Photo by Peter Hum / PostmediaArticle content
Open: Sunday to Wednesday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Thursday to Saturday 11 a.m. to midnight
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Price: Smash burgers $12 to $19
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Access: No steps to front door
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When Ottawa chef Kristine Hartling struck out on her own two years ago, she opened No Forks Given, a Sandy Hill smash burger joint steps away from the University of Ottawa.
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From 2017 until the fall of 2024, Hartling ran the kitchen at Oz Kafe until that upscale ByWard Market restaurant suddenly closed. Representing Oz Kafe, she even took home bronze at the 2024 regional qualifier for the Canadian Culinary Championship. But, before Oz Kafe closed, Hartling had already begun her pivot to serving burgers, fries, poutine and wings. I finally tasted the smash burgers here in May.
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Made with three-ounce, halal-certified patties, the smash burgers at No Forks Given were well-constructed and satisfying. When friends who had the cheeseburger ($12) and bacon burger ($15) dug in, they thought all was right with their world. I went out on a limb with an apple brie smash burger ($16), which is about as chef-y as a burger gets in Ottawa. It delivered on all fronts, balancing beef, cheese and fruit.
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Clockwise from left, a bacon cheeseburger, a cheeseburger and an apple brie smashburger at No Forks Given in Sandy Hill. Photo by Peter Hum / PostmediaArticle content
No Forks Given also accommodates vegans with a plant-based smash burger made with Beyond Meat patties. On Meatless Mondays, this burger is half-price for dine-in and takeout orders.
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While the burgers here aren’t as obnoxious as the flattened monsters that Heron Smash Burgers puts out, No Forks Given burgers are certainly craveable — and they’re a lot less likely to mess up your shirt.
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A smash burger at Sear and Fry on Merivale Road Photo by Peter Hum / PostmediaArticle content
Open: Monday, Tuesday and Thursday noon to 9 p.m., Wednesday 1 to 9 p.m., Friday noon to 11 p.m., Saturday 1 to 11 p.m., closed Sunday
Prices: Smash burgers $12.50
At this food truck that opened last summer in a Merivale Road parking lot, my smash burger ($12.49) was salty and juicy, but it lacked the crisp char that I prize most on a smash burger. If you feel the same way and stop here, maybe you should ask the cook to lean into his smashing.
Another option at Sear and Fry is the chopped cheese sandwich ($9.99), which is essentially a chopped-up cheeseburger in a roll. Either way, the beef here is halal.
2241 St. Laurent Blvd., 613-521-2444, skinnygeorges.ca
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A double smash burger at Skinny George’s Smash Burgers in Ottawa’s east end. Photo by Peter Hum /POSTMEDIA| # | Наименование новости | Тональность | Информативность | Дата публикации |
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