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СпутникиРНSpaceXРоскосмосNASAMark Williams went for a taste test at the Brookhouse Mill on the outskirts of Denbigh
Mark Williams recently went for a taste test at the Brookhouse Mill, this is what he found:
The Brookhouse Mill was once a firm favourite with both locals and visitors alike, before it sadly closed about five years ago, following the tragic loss of the late owners John and Karen Hall.
The building itself is an old water mill, dating back to the 18th century. It sits on the banks of the river Ystrad in the hamlet of Brookhouse, on the outskirts of Denbigh.
The building has been many things over the years, originally it was a flour/grain mill, before being converted into a house and working pottery by the Powell family. It was turned into a popular restaurant and pub, sometime back in the eighties.
The Brookhouse is now a new addition to the Stange family, who have sympathetically restored the building back to a warm and welcoming traditional country pub. The refurbishment is a real head turner and despite the clean lines that chain pubs often inhabit, the building hasn’t lost any of the old charm and character.
The restaurant now has a lovely outdoor space for those brief warmer evenings with tables made out of old beer barrels. Inside, it has a stunning first-floor terrace with the venue being spread over two floors. There are old axles and drive machinery from the mill over head and even though the place is busy, there are plenty of nooks and crannies to find yourself a quiet spot.
The Stange family also own the popular Cottage Loaf in Llandudno and the Erskine Arms in Conwy, so know a thing or two about pub grub menus. The eclectic list of options has a nibbles section with items such as pork and smoked pancetta sausage roll or salt and pepper squid with Car y Mor seaweed for £7.50 each.
Starters include charred wild mackerel for £9.95, spiced chorizo Scotch egg for £8.95 or white onion, fennel, apple and cider soup for £7.25. Mains include slow braised steak and ale pie for £18.95. pan roasted rump of lamb £24.95, Conwy wild sea bass fillet £22.95 or even a chosen charity dish for £17.95 with 50p from each meal going to ‘The Butterfly Suite, Arrowe Park Hospital’.
I strongly advise you to book a table in advance as the venue has been mainly sold out since it first opened in May. The car park was already full when we arrived at 12 noon on a Friday as customers flooded in through the doors. We were greeted by a member of staff and taken to our table upstairs and were given a bottle of water for the table before ordering our drinks.
I chose from the light bite menu as I fancied the crab linguine. Summer is the perfect season for eating crab and this dish used a mixture of both brown and white crab meat. It was served with fresh parsley butter, garlic, half a lemon and a spicy kick of chilli flakes.
Crab is a good seafood for pasta as you don’t need a lot of it to add a lot of flavour. The crab tasted fresh with that lingering back in your throat aftertaste, from the chili and garlic. Linguine is wider and fatter than spaghetti, so the strands held on to the flavour and juices of the crab perfectly.
I still had a mouthful of the linguine when the waitress arrived at the table, to ask how our food was? It ended with me nodding in an undignified manner with pasta being slurped into my mouth, but at least she could see I was enjoying the meal.
My wife went for a small fish and chips from the mains section for £12.95. The big chunky chips were huge and were placed underneath the crispy fish. The fat chips were precisely cut to the same length and size. The batter was crunchy and not too thick whilst the white meat inside was moist and tasty. There was a small dollop of mushy peas and a container with tangy tartare sauce on the side. You could order a larger version of the fish and chips for £18.95.
We washed down our mains with a half of the local magic dragon stout, which had a deep velvet finish with chocolate and coffee aromas. My wife had a half of Wrexham lager but the bar selection also included ale from Mold Hafod Brewery and cider from Rosies in Llandegla.
As it was still early lunch time, we skipped pudding but could see that the options included the classic sticky toffee pudding for £8.25, toffee apple brioche bread and butter pudding at £8.25 and a cheeseboard with various Welsh cheeses for £13.95.
We went to the till to pay our dues and had a quick look around the wooden outdoor terrace with its stunning views before we left. The Brookhouse Mill was once a cherished destination and it was sad to see it closed for a number of years. However, there has been a lot of public goodwill behind the reopening and hopefully the lovingly restored pub will be at the heart of the local community for at least another forty years.
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