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When each week begins, Nguyen still works as a hairdresser. But she spends Wednesdays prepping food at her banh mi shop, which is open Thursday through Saturday. She doesn’t work on Sundays, which are reserved for church and family.

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Theresa Nguyen, owner-operator of Banh Mi Haven in Kanata, poses for a photo. Photo by Tony Caldwell /Postmedia

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Huy Nguyen, no relation to Theresa, shares my opinion. He drives the 45 kilometres from Greely, where he lives, to Banh Mi Haven to satisfy his cravings. “It’s the best banh mi in Ottawa — 100 per cent,” he says.

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Like many other Banh Mi Haven’s customers, Nguyen takes home multiple sandwiches for later enjoyment. The pro move to restore that just-baked goodness, he says, is to remove the garnishes and then heat the bulk of the sandwich in an air fryer or oven for a few minutes before adding back the pickles and cilantro.

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Banh mi being assembled at Banh Mi Haven in Kanata. Photo by Tony Caldwell /Postmedia

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Nguyen says her banh mi can be customized with more or less mayo. “The soul of the banh mi,” she says of her mayo. You can order, more or less pâté, or no pâté, although for the Vietnamese palate, “it’s not banh mi without pâté,” says Nguyen.

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From all that, you can glean that Nguyen’s sandwiches are meant to be culinary glories greater than the sum of their parts, not simply hand-held vessels for a lot of meat. Customers who want even meatier banh mi can pay $2 more for extra meat.

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Barbecue pork and cha-siu-style chicken are ingredients at Banh Mi Haven in Kanata. Photo by Tony Caldwell /Postmedia

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Although the signage in the Banh Mi Haven store shows just four sandwiches for sale, three more are listed on its website. Those in the know can order a pork meatball banh mi, a shredded pork skin banh mi, or a roast pork belly banh mi that features bits of crunchy crackling. That premium sandwich costs $10.

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A roast pork belly banh mi at Banh Mi Haven in Kanata. Photo by Tony Caldwell /Postmedia

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Nguyen says she sells between 300 and 400 banh mi each day. About 70 per cent of her customers are Vietnamese expats, while 80 per cent of them are repeat customers, she says. The largest order that she fulfilled was 50 banh mi, which were cut up and served at a wedding.

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Nguyen says she won’t try to grow her business if it means that her standards would have to drop.

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“I try to keep it small and maintain the quality,” she says. “It’s worth it.”

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501 Hazeldean Rd., inside No. 70 Cake, 613-301-9871, banhmihaven.com

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Banh mi are bagged and ready to go at Banh Mi Haven in Kanata. Photo by Tony Caldwell /Postmedia

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Open: Thursday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed Sunday to Wednesday

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Prices: $8 for most banh mi, $10 for roast pork belly banh mi

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Access: No steps to front door

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Notes: Only accepts cash and e-transfers, closed July 19 to Aug. 19 for summer holiday

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